Three Thieves Zinfandel, $9.99, Bi-Rite, San Francisco

I’m sort of cheating here: Bi-Rite is sort of like a specialty store, but it’s right by the park by my house. It’s got all kinds of organic foods at ridiculous prices, and then some specialty cheeses at pretty special prices. But it’s the place that’s close to your hood that you go to when you need some seriously good chocolate, or if you suddenly need capers or something. They have loads of wines that people who buy $23.99-a-pound pre-marinated beef buy in the $20-$30 range and higher.

I’ve discovered that they also have a lot of really good wine in the $8-$10 range. This can be seen as a good thing. I’ve had some stinkers from there that the marketing would suggest would be good. The marketing? Someone drinks the wine and writes up a little card. Things like “what more can you ask for in a $7.99 Cotes du Rhone?” Maybe they are, to someone else. You might find these in your corner store, if you live in San Francisco. Or if you’re lucky. Lots of wine from Chile and Argentina, most of which comes pretty cheap. Which is, after all, why we’re here.

The Three Thieves Zin: I hear that these three guys started their own winery a few years back. They basically buy up a bunch of already-made Zin that other wineries can’t use because it doesn’t fit in with their flavor profile. The thieves blend it, pour it into modern-day jugs, and sell it. All I know is: It’s a big fruity Zin. It’s big and bold and tasty. Plus, for $9.99, you get a whole liter. that’s an extra 1/3 of a bottle of wine, or else it makes the bottle about 5 and three-quarters glasses instead of four-plus-a-little. It’s got a screw top. It goes down real easy. I had it once before we went out to dinner, and it lubricated society nicely. It’s a great wine for bumming around in the park on a beautiful sunny day. Or a grey cloudy day. Or for having friends over before you go to dinner. Or for a party. Or for anything really.

I took it to Mary’s unseasonably cold and blustery birthday in Dolores Park. It was a big hit.

This stuff is great: Goes down easy, memorable, but not too memorable. Eat most anything with it, particularly lamb. It’ll hold up to other meats, too. I’m sort of itching to get some curried goat to go with it. It’ll go down well with, say, roast vegetables or a portabella steak: It won’t overpower either. It’ll make you feel all warm inside and put a smile on your face for when you go out into the February chill wind to go to a nice meal with your guest from out of town.

Get some. You won’t be disappointed.

Heron Pinot Noir, $9.99, Bi-Rite, San Francisco

Heron Pinot Noir: This stuff is regularly $10.99, on sale right now for $9.99 at BevMo, but Bi-rite always has it for $9.99. Don’t ask me why. BevMo is annoying, Bi-Rite is local. BevMo is run by investors, Bi-Rite is run by cute funky people with tattoos and facial piercings who do things like pre-marinate legs of lamb with pomegranates and then sell it to you for $23.99 a pound.

This Pinot stands up next to just about anything. It’s eminently drinkable, and tastes like a $20 Pinot at $9.99.

It’s round and flavorful. It goes down easy. It’s so good, you’ll read the bottle after you drink it. If you’re me, at lest. It’s a little fruity without being overpowering. You can drink it with food. You can drink it alone. You can drink it with your lover before you make wild passionate love to her. This is a great wine for eating with that marinated leg of lamb. It’ll stand up to a nice tri-tip, cool and bloody in the center (just don’t forget about the resting time). At the same time, it won’t overpower, say, a roast chicken dinner. I’ve had it with good strong Salmon. Basically, it’s light enough to go with anything and strong enough to sneak in and work with everything. it’s versatile. Have your friends over for dinner, and drink it down. Take a bottle do bed with you and that lover.

You bought two, right?

You should have. You should have bought a case.

Like I say, I’m cheating. You might not find this at your corner store, but if you do buy it. Buy it all. They might not have it next week.